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Restaurant Review - The Cow Pub & Kitchen

Restaurant Review - The Cow Pub & Kitchen

Tuesday 14 January 2025

“I always eat everything on the plate so they don’t know what I’m thinking,” said Matthew Fort, the legendary British food writer and critic, as I marvelled at how he chomped through the dire offering put before us to assess. I was in Belfast at the time as the guest Irish judge of an episode of The Great British Menu. While I’d admired Matthew’s ‘fortitude’ back then, I wasn’t prepared to do likewise with the signature fish board at The Cow Pub & Kitchen more recently.

The Cow, by the Moran family of the well-known Red Cow Moran Hotel, is the new moniker for what had been Kevin Arundel’s original Chop House in Ballsbridge. Set at a busy junction, enjoying a good night-time and rugby pub trade, it’s where Shelbourne Road, Haddington Road, Bath Avenue and South Lotts Road converge.

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First Published In The Sunday Independent