Lucinda O'Sullivan's Ireland

About The Restaurant

Its hard not to be gobsmacked at the sight of the snowcapped Blue Stack Mountains as seen from Harvey’s Point Hotel. Harvey’s Point is a complete haven for grown ups, tucked away in a world of peace and harmony on the shores of Lough Eske, in Donegal. It took a Swiss man, Jody Gysling, who came on holidays in the early 80’s to spot the potential of this stunning location. To him it was “a little piece of Switzerland hidden away in the Hills of Donegal with friendly Irish people thrown in.” He bought a little cottage from two brothers called Harvey and on deciding a few years later to live in Ireland, built a small four bedroomed guest house, which finally morphed into Harvey’s Point Hotel. His brother Marc, who came to join him in the business, married local girl Deirdre McGlone, and the threesome have developed Harvey’s Point into the major operation it is today.

In the past five years the success of Harvey’s Point has been capitalised on with the addition of a new wing totally devoted to Executive, DeLuxe and Premium Suites, ranging in size from 75 sq m to 87 sq m with lavish movie star style bathrooms. Whilst they still have courtyard bedrooms, the suites really add another dimension to the comfort and relaxation of being away.

We were recently there for a Winemaker’s Dinner in conjunction with much respected wine merchant James Nicholson, who is based in Crossgar, Co. Down, but delivers throughout Ireland. On our first night we tried the four course Table d’hote menu at €59 which offered a wide selection and gave us the opportunity to try their regular menu also. I kicked off with a brace of splendid pan seared Atlantic scallops with slow cooked fennel on an innovative white chocolate veloute – delicious. Brendan had perfectly seared foie gras on caramelised pineapple, dotted with white onion mousse, and served with Brittany brioche bread. I followed with wonderful fillets of John Dory on ceps, whilst Brendan had free range Fermanagh chicken superbly presented on spiced lentils with a puree of turnip and vanilla with “roast chicken gravy”. To finish we shared a white chocolate mousse with raspberry sorbet, Bacardi and basil syrup, which was to die for.

The second night was the big event, the Winemaker’s Dinner at €85 including superb Champagnes and wines from Billecart Salmon, Chateau Tour de Mirambeau, and Quinta de la Rosa. The evening kicked off with Billecart Salmon Rose aperitifs which added a certain levity to the occasion! The 6-course tasting menu commenced with a delightful timbale of whipped organic St. Tola’s goat cheese on red cabbage gazpacho with truffled honey, which was paired with Chateau Tour de Mirambeau blanc 2008. This was followed by absolutely magnificent or, as Michael Winner might say, ‘historic’ roast quail on apple and saffron chutney, with panseared foie gras, and a white onion puree, which was paired with a Mirambeau Grand Vin Blanc 2007. We moved on to the Mirambeau rouge 2007 with darne of organic salmon, poached in olive oil, which wasn’t heavy, and was contrasted by roast beetroot and carrot and orange salad. A splendid loin of venison ensued. This had been marinated in mulled wine, and was served with chestnut and parsnip puree, and an intense Tonka bean and chocolate sauce. The venison was paired with a superb Mirambeau Grand Vin rouge 2005. Next came a selection of Irish cheese served with Quinta de la Rosa 10 year old Tawny Port, and we finished off with a glorious lemon tart with crème fraiche ice cream and poached lemon segments, served with a Billecart Salmon Demi-Sec Champagne. I think it is clear that this was fabulous value for such a dinner. Chefs Paul Montgomery and Joe O’Hora did themselves proud – as did Maitre d’ Damien McClay! Really cracking top notch stuff. Two night breaks start at €249 per person sharing.

The Swiss Family Gysling know what comfort, food and service, is all about.

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