Lucinda O'Sullivan's Ireland

About The Restaurant

The original enfant terrible celebrity Superchef, MarCo.Pierre White, collaborated with the Fitzers Group to open a Steakhouse and Grill Restaurant on Dawson Street. MPW achieved 3 Michelin Stars by the time he was 33, however, in 1999 he returned them and gave up being a slave to the stove of Michelin acclaim. In his early years he is reputed, when asked for chips by a customer, to have personally handcut the fries and charged £25! His White Star Line Company has London Restaurants including Belvedere at Holland Park, L’Escargot in Soho, and casual Italian restaurants with jockey Frankie Dettori. The décor is reminiscent of 50’s or 60’s nightclubs, an illusion enhanced by black and white photos of old movie stars. Brown banquette seating and dark wood flooring contrast with cream wood tables topped with 1950’s Soho nightclub style tiny tablelamps. The new ‘collaboration” struck us as being on the nose of what people want, no matter whose name is on the menu, buzzy, not too pricey, classically simple retro food. I could almost visualise a young Diana Dors and John Profumo in different corners. It was Rat Pack and the Kray Twins era! Starters include neo British classics such as potted shrimp, and kipper pate with whiskey and Melba toast. Jambon de Bayonne is with melon; fresh crab with mayonnaise; oysters are two ways. On our visit my friend Rena loved her clean crisp Gravadlax - three good slices of precision cut salmon, simply overleafed, and served with half moon chunks of cucumber, half a freshly cut lemon and a mustard sauce. Oyster Cocktail in a Martini glass had the prized Carlingford bivalves floating in a concoction of traditional accompaniments, TabasCo.and Worcestershire Sauce. Strong stuff - perfect for a Sunday morning hangover! 10 oz Ribeye and 8 oz Fillet Steaks are both offered with five different accoutrements - which determine their price - Sauce Bearnaise; Au Poivre Noir Raisin Sec; Au Poive Noir Grilled Oysters; A L’Escargot herb butter; Cep rubbed. Similarly, Halibut Steaks are served three ways – Nicoise, Sicilian, or Tartare. There is also Calves Liver with bacon, Fish ‘n Chips Spatchcock chicken with chipolatas or Chicken Paillard. A chunky, well flavoured, and tender ribeye was topped with escargots and herb butter and served with a decent bowl of frites. Halibut “A la Nicoise” looked straight from the Cote d’Azur with baby fennel, black olives and cherry tomatoes. A side order of creamed spinach was perfect. Desserts reverted to the Home Counties with Bread and Butter Pudding, and an Eton Mess in another Martini glass – both very pleasant. Irish Cheeses, quince jelly and biscuits, are well priced at €4 a portion or three for €10.95 Daily Lunch specials at €12.95 include Beef & Guinness Pie; Ham Hock; Pork Belly; Fish Pie – which Maitre d’ Nick Meunier claims is better than Richard Corrigan’s! Is there a challenge here Mr Corrigan? The wine list is extensive with lots by the glass. Last orders are 11 pm extended on Friday and Saturday nights to midnight. How very civilised. Roll out the E-Type Jag, Giles, it’s back to the future!

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