Lucinda O'Sullivan's Ireland

About The Restaurant

Having loved everything about it when I had first visited, I was finally back on what is one of the best terraces in Dublin, located to the rear of one of the city’s fine Georgian houses, Suesey Street - which indeed was the original name for Leeson Street in the 1700s. The emphasis now, as is everywhere, is on a more informal approach eating and drinking. The front area is a comfortably club type bar, with a dining area ‘around the corner’ as it were, and the super covered in terrace with a retractable canopy and focal fireplace, making it perfect for all year round al fresco dining. 

The general manager here is the famous John Healy, known far and wide for his turn as Maitre’ d on TV3’s The Restaurant, not to mention his wealth of experience, having led the charge in some of the best restaurants in New York, London and Paris. A consummate professional, and always with a welcoming smile, John really is the perfect host. The head chef here is Gareth Naughton, who specializes in top-notch, sophisticated contemporary cuisine, and has brought his skill and flair to Suesey Street's Kitchen, dishing out some of the best high end casual food available.

On my return visit, a la carte starters included whipped goats cheese with croquettes, nuts & seeds, beetroot and a blackberry dressing, as well as roast scallops with a sea vegetable risotto and pickled seaweed. I went back and forth for a while but eventually decided on the organic cured salmon, a fishy delight served with soya, apple, radish and cucumber, whilst Brendan opted for the pan seared foie gras. Rich and delicate, he was more than pleased with the dish he was presented and happily obliged in cleaning his plate.

The mains had plenty for us to consider with dishes like lamb loin with potato mousseline, wild garlic, asparagus, peas, morels and a lamb sauce; or pressed duck leg with foie gras, beetroot, rhubarb and blackberry. Their roasted Irish leek was on offer with hazelnut, gnocchi, truffle and goats curd, while turbot was there also, served with Jerusalem artichoke, winter mushrooms and truffle. Himself fancied the fillet of beef which proved an impressive tranch, accompanied by pressed potato, braised oxtail, salsify and chanterelle mushrooms, which he thoroughly enjoyed. Meanwhile, I had my sights set on the John Dory, a delicious and perfectly prepared piece of fab fish flanked by poached langoustine, cauliflower, sea herbs and tasty vadouvan spice.

With still a little room on board, and more than happy to extend our stay, we gleefully perused the dessert menu which was full of tempting treats, from Kaffir lime parfait with white chocolate, mango mousse, coconut sorbet and an Asian fruit salad; to a whipped dark chocolate number with caramelised bananas, vanilla ice-cream and peanut. I decided on their chocolate fondant tart, which was a small slice of heaven accompanied by its vanilla ice-cream, raspberry and honeycomb, while Brendan had his eye on the apple frangipane tart with apple caramel and vanilla ice-cream which he found utterly moreish.

On my first visit, my friend, Mary remarked that, “Sitting here, you could be anywhere in the world.” And she was absolutely right. Sitting on that terrace, you feel like you’re apart from daily Irish life, away on some continental getaway, relaxing and taking in the fab food, scenery and all the passers by.

Whether it's for lunch or dinner, If you haven’t already been, then book your table at Suesey Street right now, it’s not to be missed.
 

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