Lucinda O'Sullivan's Ireland

About The Restaurant

Very few restaurants have the honour of ever being recognized as an institution in Dublin society, but  Peploe’s on St. Stephen’s Green achieved that status the minute it opened its doors a decade or so ago.   Barry Canny is a foodie himself, he understands food, he knows what people want, but more than that he knew how to create a tremendous buzz and atmosphere, to bring the international brasserie wine bistro atmosphere to Dublin which  was enjoyed in other major European  cities.  Le tout Dublin flocked to Peploe’s, named after the famous Scottish post Impressionist Artist, Samuel Peploe, and set in the former vaults of a Bank on St. Stephen’s Green.   Along with Frederic Pelanne, who heads up the team at Peploe’s, Canny created a Wine Bistro where people can drop in for a glass of really good wine and have something small to eat, or dine as fully as they wish in the restaurant area.  

The food is classically innovative, and their wine cellar is one of the largest in Ireland with an amazing range, which they import direct from Italy, France and Spain.   Lunchtime appetisers will include a great French Onion Soup or Brie aux Filo with cranberries or whatever is in season.  I love the warm Morteau sausage with potato salad and Tartare sauce, whilst another favourite of mine is the home cured Gravad Lax, which they serve with, dressed crab, horseradish and Brioche.  Scallops ‘Au Gratin’ are another great classic treat, which you can’t get everywhere nowadays.  Mains might include their famous Cottage Pie, or wonderful confit duck leg ‘Sud-Ouest’ with braised potatoes, Cepes and Pruneaux d’Agen.  Game in season includes roast pheasant with Parma ham and fig stuffing, Cavolo Nero and duck fat potatoes, or venison braised in red wine with mash, Borettane onions and wild mushrooms.   Their fishcakes are also renowned, served with scented potatoes, Pak Choy, tomato and coriander relish.  You also get a wonderful Dublin Bay risotto here mixed with artichokes, lemon and pepperoncini, whilst the true carnivore will also be happy with a marrow crusted Irish sirloin steak with spinach, chips and red wine sauce.

The Dinner Menu has starters such as pan seared veal kidneys with wholegrain mustard sauce and Girolles, as dressed Clogherhead crab and smoked salmon.  Pasta and risotto can be had in starter or mains sizes and might include linguine with Dublin Bay prawns and Cepes.  Gnocchi in a goat’s cheese sauce with puntarelle and pepperoncino is to die for, as is the pheasant risotto with Pecorino, parsley and pomegranate.    Dishes change seasonally, but roast loin of venison is with smoked bacon, red cabbage, mashed potatoes and buckthorn jus, whilst cracking pan seared scallops are with chorizo and Romanesco sauce.   I also love the grilled whole Seabream with potato, Vermouth and cockles, as well as the panfried Turbot, the king of fish, which is with crabmeat risotto and sauté Gambas.   Steaks are amazing, either a dry aged Irish  10 oz sirloin, 8 oz fillet, or 10 oz rib-eye with all the tweaks.  Try the aubergine fritters with tomato relish and basil as a side – or of course the colcannon – you won’t get better anywhere else.

Follow up with a pud – you have to – for how could one resist Drambuie Pannacotta with figs and pistachio nuts, or a hot chocolate oozing fondant with salted butter icecream!

Peploe's has it all.










 

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