Restaurant Review - An Bhialann
Friday 21 February 2014
In a city that is awash with – nay, expects – value menus and early birds, the first thing that struck us in the new steak and seafood restaurant, An Bhialann, on a bleak Thursday evening in January, was that there were no such offerings and only their a la carte menu was available.
Only the downstairs bar area of the restaurant was open – the main room upstairs being closed "as it was a bit quiet", which made us wonder further why they didn't have any value menus to attract customers on the ground – especially as they had already featured on one of the 'deals' sites offering €60 dining vouchers for €30.
Having gone out, as it were, for a modest midweek night, I was a bit disgruntled by this factor. However, the menu looked appealing – the sort of traditional food that people like on a night out, or for a celebration. Indeed, four people at a neighbouring table were going the whole hog with lobster, which was given the full treatment by being brought from tank to table, before being dispatched and hatched upstairs, then reappearing on a large platter for approval. It disappeared yet again to have the claws cracked, and came back in full dress mode, with the head standing upright.
Meanwhile, across the way, two suits were being presented with their second bottle of red wine.
Feeling, then, a little like Scrooge, it was a case of "in for a penny, in for a pound" to see how their steak and seafood fared. It fared very well, indeed. This is timeless food that is decent, well-executed and professional.
Starters were €8.95-€12.95, apart from the soup of the day, at €5.95, and the choices included prawn cocktail; infused crab claws with fennel and caper butter, toasted pine nuts and baby salad; as well as dill-scented seafood chowder.
Braised beef cheeks were in a green bean, potato and pancetta ragu with a red wine reduction, while crispy confit of pork belly came with a pear puree, tossed leaves and red wine jus. I had three large, perfectly seared scallops (€12.95), which were centered with dressed rocket leaves, three pieces of black pudding, crispy lardons and diced tomato.
Brendan chose the popular stalwart of deep-fried goat's cheese (€8.95). Three large 'bonbons' the size of golf balls, were served with pesto-drizzled leaves and a tomato relish, which he enjoyed.
Mains were €18.95-€32, and sides, including mashed potato and hand-cut chips, were €4 a pop. Roasted monkfish tail featured, as did pan-fried sea bass fillets and chicken supreme.
Steaks included 10oz striploins and fillets, 12oz rib-eyes and a 'Surf 'n' Turf' combo sporting an 8oz fillet steak with prawns, crab claws and green beans. Brendan's medium-rare, 12oz rib-eye (€24.95) proved superb – tender and delicious. Served with green beans, roasted cherry tomatoes, and seared mushrooms, he also had a side order of chips (€4), which were fresh and chunky.
I had a 'special of the day' of Dublin Bay prawns (€24.95) in garlic butter, which were a treat. Sauteed and served with samphire and a quenelle of fine, fine mash, they would definitely put An Bhialann on my visiting list again.
We economised on desserts, which were well priced at €6.95, and included apple crumble with ice cream; chocolate fondant; and gluten-free blueberry and vanilla bread and butter pudding served with a creme Anglaise. Most of An Bhialann's dishes, including their sauces, are gluten-free.
With a glass of Australian Pepperton Estate Shiraz 2011 and a glass of Chateau des Eyssards Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2012, at €7.25 a pop, our bill, with optional service charge, came to €99.30.
On leaving, they told us they realised they should have had a value menu on offer, and have since introduced an early bird menu from Sunday to Thursday, 5.30pm to 7pm, with 2/3 courses at €24/€27.50.
Good food, charming service, very welcoming.
AN BHIALANN
120 Ranelagh, Dublin 6.
Tel: (01) 538-5200
www.anbhialann.ie
www.lucindaosullivan.com