Restaurant Review - Franchini's
Tuesday 12 November 2013
The opening of the eponymous Castlemartyr Resort in East Cork in 2007 was the talk du jour. The magnificent house, which had for many years been in the hands of a religious order, was exquisitely restored and refurbished, whilst the grounds and gardens were world standard. However, we were on the cusp of the crash, and Castlemartyr went through a few difficult years, as did everyone else, coping and adapting to the times we were in. Happily, for the first time in a few years, the hotel will remain open over the winter and indeed will also be open for Christmas itself with a full programme
Along with their formal dining restaurant, The Bell Tower, they have added a new Italian eatery called Franchini’s, which gives guests in the hotel and the self-catering lodges the option of a casual dining experience. The fact that Franchini’s is not within the main house, but in the Spa building with a separate entrance, makes it very accessible for non-residents.
Whilst they serve pizzas, pastas and antipasti boards, Franchini's is not of the kitsch Italian ‘Pinocchio’ variety but more a refined ristorante take which is greatly enhanced by the fact that it opens out onto Castlemartyr’s formal gardens with their Tuscan pines and topiary – perfect for al fresco dining. Italian music was playing gently on our visit and it just all had a very nice feel. Executive Head Chef Kevin Burke has balanced the menu very well in covering ultra casual dishes with other good Italian dishes.
Starters (€5.50 - €9.95) included minestrone soup with grated Parmesan; grilled Mozzarella bruschetta and an Italian cured meats platter. Our sharing platter for two (€12.95) gave us a superb selection including a quartet of good crispy tomato risotto balls drizzled with pesto, two tranches of lavishly topped mozzarella and diced tomato bruschetta, and a selection of Prosciutto, spicy salami, Braesola, mixed olives and sliced gherkins. Good as all of these were, I was most impressed with an endive salad which saw chicory leaves layered ‘spoon’ style, interspersed with Gorgonzola cheese and poached pear drizzled with Balsamic. It was just a totally elegant little ‘happening’ in the middle of the wooden board on which it was presented. The boards in fact were made especially for Castlemartyr from trees cut down on the estate during its development. A selection of warm Italian breads (€4.95) with dips were also excellent.
Five Pizzas €13.95 - €16.50 include caramelized onion, potato, goats cheese and thyme, and slow cooked duck, caramelized onions and Hoisin sauce – the latter apparently being the most popular choice. Pasta and risottos (€14.50 - €19.95) featured a pumpkin ravioli with sage, crisp shallot, Parmesan and Truffle emulsion. Tagliatelle Carbonara is there as well as is an Italian sausage and white onion risotto. Mains included pan-fried sea bream with panzanella salad, whilst chargrilled swordfish had a fennel salad and tomato and caper salsa. Roast veal loin steak with butternut squash, confit garlic and red wine jus, looked superb at a table next to us. Chicken Milanese (€17.95) for Brendan was crispy and delicious with a whole grain mustard sauce and a warm potato salad. This was real food, satisfying and good , and he thoroughly enjoyed it. Likewise my bowl floweth over with al dente linguine (€19.95) tossed with chunky king prawns and spicy salami hyped up with garlic, chilli and radicchio. Potato wedges (€4.95) were divine, nay almost addictive, with earthy truffle oil mayonnaise and Parmesan.
Puds (€5.96/€6.95) sported warm chocolate brownies and Tiramisu. I had Boulaban Farm ice cream (€6.95) presented lavishly and dramatically in a cone held in a wooden frame. A Children’s Menu offers mains at €7.50, starters and desserts at €3.50, or three courses at €14 – so the little darlings will be happy too. Worth noting is their autumn 2-course Special at €19.95 which runs from Sunday to Thursday from 5.30 p.m. to 7.30 p.m. – perfect for that late Sunday lunch.
With a bottle of Sicilian La Ferla Nero d’Avola 2011 (€28), our bill with optional service came to €105.70. A 5 Star setting, good Italian food, what’s not to like.
Franchini’s,
Italian Restaurant,
Castlemartyr Resort,
Castlemartyr,
East Cork.
Tel: (021) 421-9000
FIRST PUBLISHED IN THE SUNDAY INDEPENDENT