Restaurant Review - Marco Pierre White Courtyard Bar & Grill
Tuesday 29 October 2013
The sometime enfant terrible of the kitchen, Marco Pierre White, breezed into town recently for the opening of his second restaurant in Dublin. Unlike many of the ventures by English celebrity chefs, MPW’s restaurant in Dawson Street, in partnership with the Fitzpatrick ‘Fitzers’ family, has proved a tremendous success. Now they are expanding to the ‘burbs, the posh D4 burbs of course, where the heart of Donnybrook village has seen the opening of a number of new eateries, as well as new shops, but I guess the arrival of MPW seals its status as a dining destination.
The location is the former Courtyard Restaurant, vacant for the past couple of years, which was best described as resembling an aircraft hanger. They have ‘cosied’ it up creating an almost Palm Court feel of a Victorian/Edwardian Brasserie. The ceiling has been lowered and embellished with stained glass panels, the central ‘swimming pool’ floor raised and covered with warm red carpet. Button back banquettes and curved booths surround spacious central tables and antique leather chairs, whilst the mahogany bar, which stood for many years in the Montrose Hotel, adds a focus to the room. Victorian palms and vast arrangements of hydrangeas hint of Downton. I
“Affordable glamour” is Marco Pierre White’s motto for modern day dining and, with bustling immaculately attired waiters in attendance, it certainly adds to the atmosphere and occasion. There is no nonsense either when it comes to food – no twiddly bits or pointless poncey too clever twists on your plate. This is classical Franco British time immemorial food - Hors d’Oeuvre, Irish Hereford steaks, Grills & Roasts and Fish Mainboards - served in a traditional style.
Hors d’Oeuvre (€6.95 - €14.50) include fresh asparagus with Hollandaise; Baltimore mussels; smoked mackerel Brandade; Steak Tartare a L’Americaine; Foie Gras and duck egg en brioche; Carlingford Oysters et al. I went for the daddy of them all with the timeless irresistible Fanny Craddock creation of Dublin Bay Prawn cocktail (€14.50) which, whilst expensive, proves there is absolutely nothing to touch a chunky divine Dublin Bay prawn! Like a good Bond movie, age has not dimmed the prawn cocktail’s aura. In a tall Martini glass with shredded crispy Romaine, the chunky divine whoppers were bathed in Marie Rose sauce. Brendan’s chicken liver pate (€9.95), on the other hand was almost simple peasant style. It came in a little white dish topped with tiny soaked raisins in a Madeira jelly and two big slices of toasted rustic bread - no fuss – but confident and elegant in its simplicity.
Ribeye, Sirloin and fillet steaks, (€26-€34) can be had with Béarnaise, Bordelaise or Escargot sauces and are a big part of the scene here. However, you can also have a beefburger or honey glazed pork belly both under €20, as well as a classic fish pie, grilled tuna Italian style, chicken paillard. Roast rack of Wicklow lamb Dijonaise (€29.95) proved a guard of honour brace of perfectly pink double chops set between a dome of gratin Dauphinoise and a little copper pot of mint juices. Brendan’s beautiful tranch of grilled halibut (€27.95) reflected summer days in Provençe with herbs, cherry tomatoes, Balsamic and olive oil; it was topped with baby fennel, and served with a side order of delicious crispy frites (€4.95).
Puds (€8.95) again are classics including Apple Tarte Fine or rice pudding and raspberry. Again a Crème Brulee was a totally simple delicious classic. There are lots of cocktails to lead you astray and an extensive wine list from €28 - €250 but, with our more basic choice of three glasses of Sunbury Shiraz 2010 ( €9 ea) and bottled water (€4.50), our bill with optional service came to €139.75.
Marco Pierre White returned his 3 Michelin Stars many years ago and got on with providing good food that the customers really like – is there a message here?
Marco Pierre White Courtyard Bar & Grill,
Belmont Avenue,
Donnybrook,
Dublin. 4.
Tel: (01) 551-0555
FIRST PUBLISHED IN THE SUNDAY INDEPENDENT.