Restaurant Review - That's Amore
Tuesday 09 April 2013
“When the moon hits your eye, like a big pizza pie, that’s amore,
When the world seems to shine, like you’ve had too much wine, that’s amore.”
So go the words of the song ‘That’s Amore’ made famous by smoothie crooner Dean Martin way back in 1952. Always a great number to get everyone rocking from side to side in their seats, but just in case you don’t know the words, they are emblazoned in the menu of the eponymous new ‘That’s Amore’ Italian eatery in the heart of Monkstown Village.
It’s a really cute little place, seating just about 20 people, in a shop premises which over the years has been The Garden, a long standing vegetable shop, and after that a deli café which shut up shop a year or so ago. Now run by a husband and wife team, who operate as chef and front of house respectively, the décor is crisp cream and grass green tongue and groove walls, simple yet chic deli style, with a counter service area at the back of the room, urban retro style light fittings, and lots of shelving sporting wines and olive oils. “My husband was the chef at Regazzi in Dalkey for six years” - the Signora in charge told us
Antipasti, Pasta and Pizza, and copious Italian vino is what it is all about here accompanied by a good belt of Italian music and Abba stalwarts in the background to get you going. If you like crostini, mozzarella, charcuterie, anchovies, capers, tuna and Gorgonzola you are going to love it even more for all of these ingredients appear profusely in different combinations. Crostino al Salmone has baked bread with Mozzarella and salmon, whilst Bruschetta al Talli Cappero is baked bread with capers. Melanzane alla Parmigiana is there, as is the popular Caprese di Bufala, with antipasti prices running from €4.95 for the simple Bruschetta al pomodoro to €10.95 for Carpaccio di Pesce Spada – smoked swordfish. My son Aidan had Antipasto Misto (€9.50) and was quite bowled over by the size of what arrived on a long rectangular plate. A colourful profusion sported Parma ham, a trio of salamis, Mortadella, peppers, courgette, cucumber, black olives and artichoke. Alici di Cefalea e Burrata (€8.95) for me was also a cracker. Burrata is a fresh Italian cheese resembling a soft ball or pouch tied around with ribbon. The outside is mozzarella and the inside is cream so when you cut into it you got this gorgeous creamy flow ebbing out. With this bundle of bliss was the contrast of sharp zingy salty little anchovies and black olives sitting on rocket and two ‘feathers’ of radicchio.
Pasta and Gnocchi €11.95 - €16.50 ranged from Penne all’Arrabiata to Tortelloni Salsa Rosa - filled with spinach and Italian cheese in a tomato and fresh cream sauce with Parmesan. Gnocchi, which are potato dumplings, could be had with Gorgonzola or basil and tomato sauce. Pizzas run from €9.95 to €14.50. Aidan had a special of linguine with prawns (€16.95) with King prawns, courgette, and cherry tomatoes which also got the thumbs up, whilst I had Tonnarello pasta “al Tartufo” (€15.95) a rich truffle infused creamy sauce with grated mature Parmesan. Whilst delicious I would have liked a stronger truffle flavour to really make it a whopper.
We continued on with desserts at €6.50 each - delicious pannacotta with berries, and a rich chocolate number with cream and icecream with which they kindly brought some fresh orange slices to cut through and contrast the richness. ‘The Winner Takes It All’ was now belting it out as we looked out at the beautifully lit castellated Monkstown Church and with a bottle of delicious rich and smoky flavoured Cannonau “i Fiori” di Sardegna DOC 2011 (€28.95) it certainly did feel like we were winners alright!
Our bill with optional service came to €103.30. By the way, as it transpired - the antipasto starter would in fact be perfect to share – as would the chocolate dessert.
When you walk from a place with a smile on your face, that’s amore!
That’s Amore
107 Monkstown Road,
Monkstown,
Co. Dublin.
Tel: (01) 284-5400
www.lucindaosullivan.com