Restaurant Review - Find That 'Seafood Shack'
Wednesday 11 July 2012
The ‘Mission’, more dedicated than Tom Cruise and sometimes equally ‘Impossible’, of many city folk when on the family holiday, is to find that great mythical ‘seafood shack’ by the coast , just waiting to ply you with crab claws the size of your fist, hunky sexy Dublin Bay Prawns, oysters, lobster or crayfish, a bucket of Marie Rose sauce, and good brown bread – and something to satisfy the nippers too. I can still dredge up in my nostrils the smell of fish and chips and vinegar that wafted down the beach on cold wet days in the Skerries of my childhood, as we scarpered towards Nirvana, as my mother muttered “better not let anyone see us eating fish and chips.” I adore sitting out on the plethora of covered decks around Normandy and Brittany chomping through the real deal at decent prices and we need more of that here.
I first interviewed Martin Shanahan of Fishy Fishy Restaurant in Kinsale many years ago when he and his wife Marie had a small Gourmet Store. Martin said then that his dream was to provide casual seafood, great big crab claws that people could eat as he had seen on the wharf in San Francisco. He certainly lived his dream by opening his Fishy Fish Shop and Café, opposite St. Multose Church, before developing his supersmart Fishy Fishy on Pier Road. However, the original Fishy Fishy Shop & Cafe is now also their “Chippie” doing great casual grub from 12.00 noon to 4.30 p.m. Here you can chow down at long communal tables on haddock, hake or cod, in Tempura batter with homemade chips at €9.95 – no skin – no bone – no fear. Kids are €6.95. www.fishyfishy.ie Across the bay at Summercove, Pearse and Mary O’Sullivan’s Bulman Bar is a brilliant spot for casual grub at decent prices in a great atmosphere. Think of Dublin Bay Prawn Soup lightly spiced with coriander root, chili and lemongrass, or half a local grilled lobster with salad at €15.50. Now, that hits the spot. www.thebulman.ie
The Crazy Crab at Kilmore Quay in Co. Wexford, is great. Mike and Mairead Crowley have worked in the fishing industry for years. Located in a harbourside building beside Kilmore Fish Factory, here we had one of the best seafood platters ever! It had wadges of crabmeat, great big Dublin Bay Prawns, crab claws, scallops, mackerel, smoked salmon and at €32.95 for two people this was a dream come true. The Crazy Crab also does the most amazing classic Langoustine or crab cocktails for under a tenner. Fish or chicken goujons for kids and chips are a neat €4. www.crazycrab.ie
Over the Central Fish Market in Bantry, West Cork, is The Fish Kitchen. Casual lunchtime grub includes crab, salmon or smoked salmon sandwiches €8.50/ €11.95 plus daily specials. In the evening they swing into dishes such as a tagine of monkfish served with steamed rice, or moules mariniere, crab claws, seared scallops and squid with eclectic twists of chili and coriander et al. The Seafood Platter here is for a minimum of two people and priced seasonally. www.thefishkitchen.ie
Youen Jacob first opened his Breton style Chez Youen Restaurant in Baltimore, West Cork, in 1979 enthralling people with big platters of Galley head prawns, velvet, brown and spider crabs. Chez Youen is now closed and but the fantastic platters are being served at Kate & Youen Jacob junior’s Waterfront on the Square, which offers accommodation also. Their family budget restaurant, La Jolie Brise Pizza & Grill, also adds another option for the kids. www.waterfronthotel.ie At the Lighthouse Bar & Restaurant at the Garryvoe Hotel in East Cork facing the beach, they do great casual food including scampi and chips, as well as fabulous fish and chips of plaice, that is apart from top notch steaks and much more. www.garryvoehotel.com
Spillane’s Bar, on the Maharees, on Dingle Peninsula, do Dingle Prawns, breaded by Ted Browne, and served scampi style with side salad and chips. Try the prawn cocktail with homemade brown bread. They also do burgers and pizzas, and Annascaul black pudding, and have a natty kids menu including Kids Steak & Chips. www.spillanesbar.com Out of the Blue on the pier in Dingle town captures the idea of the casual seafood eatery in attractive simple rustic surroundings, but the prices aren’t so simple! Steamed crab claws in the shell with garlic butter as a starter will set you back around €13.50. Seabass or chargrilled John Dory are €27.50/€28.50 whilst a half crayfish salad is €37.50. www.outoftheblue.ie The KerryFish Company have recently opened Quinlan’s Seafood Bar in the heart of Killarney which is proving very popular with tourists and locals alike. The fish hops off their own boats in South Kerry into the pan. Traditional fish and chips here as well as shellfish and ‘catch of the day’ specials. www.kerryfish.com Well worth a visit is Rob O’Mahony and Aisling Courtney’s dinky Sheilin Seafood Restaurant at Waterville, where they know how to knock up great fresh fish and crack a crab claw. They have had all the golfers from Tiger Woods to Padraig Harrington. Facebook/Sheilin Seafood Restaurant.
At Liscannor, Co. Clare, Vaughan’s Anchor Inn do lots of seafood with their Seafood Platter at €25.95 having Dublin Bay Prawns, Oysters, white crabmeat, roasted fresh salmon, crab claws, smoked mackerel, mussels and salad. www.vaughans.ie In Dunmore East, Co. Waterford, The Strand Inn have two eateries, a Seafood Restaurant, and their new casual Cliff Bar & Restaurant serving brunch from 9 a.m. right through until 10 pm for food. On two levels, downstairs is kid friendly, whilst upstairs is kid free! The menu changes throughout day swinging from brunch dishes through pizzas, pastas, steaks, burgers and cocktails!! www.thestrandinn.com Over in Ardmore, Co. Waterford, I love the food in the White Horses Café Restaurant on the main street. Top quality prawns, lobster, duck and other viands here with luscious gratin potatoes has this place packed. During the day its casual café food with delicious cordon bleu style desserts. whitehorses@eircom.net
Moran’s of the Weir, at Kilcolgan, Co. Galway is a famous spot for oysters and their Seafood Special with a selection of smoked salmon, crab meat, prawns, and crab claws is €20.95. The kids menu has chicken goujons and mash or fries at €5.20 or battered cod and chips at €9.50 www.moransoystercottage.com O’Grady’s on the Pier at Barna is another serious fishy destination. They do seafood salads from €16.95 to €22.95 but go for the platter at €22.95 which has the lot. Why mess about – you are on hols! www.ogradysonthepier.com
Back in the Skerries of my youth, the Blue Bar, Café Bar & Grill, is pulling them in. They do food from 12.30 through to 9.30 p.m. with an eclectic menu from tapas style starters, through fish, gourmet burgers, pastas and house favourites including Buffalo wings and Junior Wings. www.bluebar.ie
More holiday nosh next week!
www.lucindaosullivan.com