Restaurant Review - Ard na Sidhe
Tuesday 19 June 2012
Tucked away on a height, overlooking the glorious Caragh Lake in Co. Kerry, just outside Killorglin, lies one of the most beautiful houses, and most perfect of romantic and magical escapes, in the country. Set on 32 acres of spectacular gardens, hidden paths and secret glades, Ard na Sidhe, which means ‘Hill of the Fairies’, takes its name from a tree-covered knoll on the grounds. An Arts & Crafts house, Ard na Sidhe was built in the early 1900’s by Lady Edith Gordon, a lady of titled Irish lineage. Lady Gordon wanted to build the house of her dreams using local workmen and an architect chosen, it is said, more for his romantic appearance than his ability. Whatever about that, the house is a wonderful creation, built from brown sandstone with a gabled roof. Bought in 1958 by the late German Industrialist, Dr. Liebherr, it is still owned by the Liebherr family who also own the superb Europe and Dunloe Castle Hotels in Killarney.
This past winter saw a huge renovation programme at Ard na Sidhe with no expense being spared in the attention to detail and restoration of original pieces of furniture from writing boxes and desks to beautiful tables and paintings. The whole feel here is of being in a wonderful country house that hasn’t changed over the generations and, indeed, it is overseen by the elegant Manager, Jennifer Dowling from Cork, whose grandmother, Kathleen Dowling, also held that role for many years, and whom Jennifer used help out on school holidays. <ep>
Our room was a total sanctuary with a four-poster bed, glorious William Morris wallpaper and curtains – it is the first time I have ever lusted after curtains! Bedrooms do not have a TV unless you request one and then it is supplied in two minutes flat. I like the option!
Food is country house style, delicious, fresh and seasonal, attractively presented, by German chef Ralf Mahler. Starters were €5/€13.50 and Brendan kicked off with a tian of warm avocado and pear topped with gratinated goats cheese (€8.50), a flourish of dill, and drizzled with a honey and hazelnut sitting in a spring garden of colourful leaves, herbs, diced red peppers, and chives. It was a great sweet sour combination of fruits and cheese which works so well. I had a trio of cracking pan-fried scallops (€13.50) with a salad melange of Prosciutto, spinach leaf, caramelized apple and walnuts.
Mains €25/€32.50 included Guinea Fowl with a Morel cream sauce, honey glazed carrots and a wild garlic potato cake, whilst panfried John Dory was paired with an herb beurre blanc, green asparagus, cherry tomato ragout and vanilla butter potatoes. Brendan’s superb cocoa flavoured fillet of beef (€32.50) was topped unusually with fabulous poached plums, accompanied by caramelized almond broccoli and Pommes Chateau. Being in the Kingdom, I went with rack of tender Kerry lamb (€30, French trimmed, coated with a garlic herb crust, and roasted to perfectly pink perfection. It was napped with a thyme jus, and served with sautéed green beans and Béchamel Pecorino potatoes.
We finished by sharing marinated fresh pineapple with raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, topped with a chocolate cup filled with pineapple ice-cream (€9). Wines were well priced and we enjoyed a bottle of Chateau Haut-Lavallade St Emilion Grand Cru 2009 (€24). Breakfast next morning had a wonderful array of home baked breads (including gluten free), as well Eggs Benedict, Homemade pancakes with maple syrup, Toasted Poppy Seed Bagel with cream cheese or smoked salmon, or scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and garden herbs. <ep>
We departed the Hill of the Fairies reluctantly as a guest was heading out with his fishing rod – like a step back in time. Boating and fishing are free on the lake for guests and there are numerous guided trails for walking and hiking. It is also the perfect spot for afternoon tea overlooking the lake or for dinner - by reservation.
Although welcoming guests for 50 years, Ard na Sidhe is one of Ireland’s best kept secrets – it is the perfect escape. 2 night breaks with one dinner are available in the main house from €285pps and in the garden house from €205 pps.
Ard na Sidhe Country House,
Caragh Lake,
Killorglin,
Co. Kerry.
Tel: (066) 976-9105
www.lucindaosullivan.com
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