RESTAURANT REVIEW - GORDON RAMSAY AT RITZ-CARLTON
Monday 20 June 2011
Gordon Ramsay was in town lately for the re-launch of the Gordon Ramsay Restaurant at the Ritz Carlton Hotel at Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow. He didn’t attract quite the same attention as HM Queen Elizabeth, Barack and Michelle, or even Mickey Mouse at the new Disney Store on Grafton Street, but at least he was there, which was more than he was on the occasion of the original launch in 2007. I was watching him recently on the TV programme ‘Gordon’s Great Escape’ showing him in Malaysia merrily chopping slices off some poor bull’s penis, bound for a soup, attributing each ‘chop’ to English food critics – AA Gill, Michael Winner, Giles Coren….. so it seams Mr. Ramsey does not like us food critics …..most chefs don’t as they smile through their teeth at us…. They don’t like us cos we stand up for the customer and tell the truth, unpalatable and all as it may be to them, but then Mr. Ramsay doesn’t come across as very likeable on TV either when he is eating the beating heart of a snake, which correctly upset an animal’s rights group, or chopping and waving an animal’s penis for our delectation.
Like us or not, I was invited to the re-launch, but then I don’t go to openings, closings, or other persuasive bun fights, so I slipped in the next evening with friend Rena who lives locally. The PR blurb promised “an exciting new concept in dining serving a simple, seasonal and local menu using the best ingredients Ireland has to offer with all the finesse expected from a Gordon Ramsay restaurant…….well loved classic dishes with a modern twist based on the Savoy Grill menu in London.” They were also launching the new Chef de Cuisine, Peter Byrne, who has worked for 6 years as Senior Sous at Chapter One – a good pedigree GR apart at all.
The restaurant appeared the same, indeed the waiter seemed the same, the menu didn’t look all that different in style since I sat there in October 2007, save prices have come down. Starters were €17/€25 whilst now, though still in double figures, they are €10/€16, with mains, previously ringing in at €40 plus, primarily €30/€40. The clientele on a Tuesday evening was sparse, mainly the grey Euro, and many seemed to be having main courses only. Wine options too were much more accessible. Last time I was weighed down with an intimidating tome.
Starters included pressed ham and foie gras, green Pea Soup, organic house marinated salmon, and cider glazed pork belly – all very safe - no bull’s penis soup here! Rena had hand cut tagliatelle with asparagus and wild mushroom cream (€12) topped with shards of parmesan. I had a tian of avocado topped Castletownbere crab (€15) and wearing a Royal Wedding style hat of vibrant pea shoots. Elegantly executed and refined, neither was cheap but the flavours, lightness and freshness were divine. The Grill element of the menu is fairly minimal in comparison to the Savoy Grill – sirloin steaks, rib eye, lamb chops, €32/€34. Funny now too to see rib eye steaks outpricing sirloins. Braised lamb shoulder, Skeaghnore Duck breast, seatrout, or roast chicken were the other options. Rena’s monkfish (€30) was a brace of modest chunks wrapped and roasted in prosciutto with a fennel salad. Rib eye steak (€34) was a whopper, I gave Rena a lump, sitting on a board with a roasted shallot, and with which I had green peppercorn sauce. Vegetables and fries were extra so we shared one portion of wild mushrooms (€5) which were plentiful and really good.
Desserts are pricey at €10/€12 but we ordered one selection of sorbets – honey lavender, lemon curd, raspberry, fromage blanc – five lovely silky quenelles on a slate. With one glass each of Australian, Milton Park Riesling at €10 each, and a double espresso (€6) our bill with optional service came to €143. It’s actually all a very pleasant 5 Star hotel experience and a far cry from the F word and other crudity!
Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt,
The Ritz-Carlton,
Powerscourt,
Co. Wicklow.
Tel: (01) 274-8888
THIS ARTICLE WAS FIRST PUBLISHED IN THE SUNDAY INDEPENDENT ON JUNE 19, 2011.