Restaurant Review - Cellar 22 and Row Wines
Wednesday 17 January 2024
I was in a subterranean haven at Cellar 22, a new wine bar on St Stephen’s Green, where Randy Crawford was belting out her ’80s hit, One Day I’ll Fly Away, over the sound system, and I honestly could have stayed there all day. In fact, this is not just any cellar. It has a considerable hospitality history down the years, having once been The Country Shop, opened in 1930 by Muriel Gahan, a staunch pioneer of the Irish Country Women’s Association, eventually closing its doors in the 1970s.
Later, No 22 was Barry Canny’s Browne’s Brasserie & Townhouse before he moved to No 16, opening his fab Peploe’s — now celebrating 20 years. It was home also to Richard Corrigan’s first Dublin venture, and to the Cliff Townhouse, which had its Urchin seafood bar in the basement.
lucindaosullivan.com
First Published In The Sunday Independent