Restaurant Review - Coffee Counter Culture
Wednesday 12 April 2017
As we rolled over another humpback bridge, Sir said tersely, “is it Bridgetown or Brigadoon we’re
in search of?” The SatNav had led us on a bit of a merry dance, skirting shortcuts that would be well familiar to locals, but I was on a mission to find Button & Spoon, a vintage style tearoom, a local foodie friend had told me about. “Why would people drive out here?”, Sir persisted, as I patiently explained that people will go anywhere if the food is good, plus there’s the massive summertime biz in the Rosslare/Kilmore Quay area. “Remember that place we had to drive through a field to get to?” In fact, Button & Spoon has proved so popular that it is also Wexford town’s newest eatery, opening in the former Bean n’ Berry premises on Custom House Quay. Bridgetown was like a step back in time, with Button & Spoon located in what was the old village shop, believed to have been in operation since 1750. Next door is Red Books, and, across the street, The Hidden Gem gift shop, as well as the dinky looking Bridie’s shop and bar, and The Bargy Bar. Inside is as pretty as picture, patterned china plates, comfortable seating, and a myriad of luscious cakes on display. The lunch menu was excellent and we kicked off by sharing chicken liver pate (€6.95), which would be my only criticism in that it was served in one of those tiny little individual jam jars you see at breakfast. A bit sparse, even if we hadn’t shared it, and awkward to get at. However, it was more than made up for by a trio of great big fluffy ‘tennis ball’ fishcakes (€14.95) complete with fries and sweet chilli sauce. Himself had the special of the day, a hearty and tasty beef and onion pie (€12.95) washed down with a glass of Le Petit Pont Reserve (€5.50). Delightful service, delightful spot.
See buttonandspoon.ie
12 Tables in Cork’s Douglas village, in the former Nakon Thai, is a new “Brooklyn inspired neighbourhood restaurant and coffee house, featuring a rustic, seasonally inspired menu, killer coffee and serious bunnage.” We wheeled up recently for breakfast and, while we appreciated the cement floor vibe, the retro vintage chic sofas and tiny school chairs, from our experience, the food could certainly ‘do better’! A delightful young man brought me an orange juice (€2.50), but what a difference it would have made if it had been fresh orange juice – even if a smaller glass. A place can be as hipstery retro as they like, but I don’t want to eat food off battered ‘vintage’ boards, no matter how well scrubbed – the one presented to me needed to be binned. The Breakfast Bap (€8) of smoked bacon, apple sausage, free range egg and cheese, was, thankfully, wrapped in greaseproof paper but it was a lukewarm mess of what felt like food that had been hanging around all morning in a bad hotel breakfast buffet. The ‘tear drop’ shaped poached egg smacked of the par-cooked variety – smathered in unbilled and unrequested chutney. I wrapped it up again and abandoned it. Sir didn’t fare any better with a bacon frittata (€8.50), a dense dry slice with a few leaves and more chutney. There needs to be more than “bunnage”.
See facebook.com/12tablescork
The French Quarter Cafe in the Excell Centre in Tipperary had a distinct theatrical vibe, which we loved. Packed and buzzy with interesting looking people, It was also amazing value with a big array of tarts and cakes including lemon meringue pie, pear frangipane tart, quiches, salads, ciabatta, bagel, and sandwich specials. I shared a delicious panini, lavishly filled with ham and oozing mouthwatering Brie (€6.50), with Brendan, and with which, for €1 extra, I had a divine creamy gluten free cauliflower soup, while he had an Americano (€2). A winner alright!
See facebook.com/French- Quarter-Cafe-Tipperary
lucindaosullivan.com
First Published In The Sunday Independent