Restaurant Review - Coppinger Row
Wednesday 28 August 2024
Coppinger reminds me of the TV sitcom Frasier, not just because it’s run by two brothers but because both have been recently revived when we thought they had bitten the dust. The fictional Crane brothers, Frasier and Niles, are outrageous snobs (unlike the Bereen brothers, Marc and Conor, she says quickly) who would live in D4, with D2 their natural stomping ground, and Coppinger their Café Nervosa meeting point. Lunching at their favourite table, they’d twitchily expound on the finer points of the Château de Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé 2021 (€100) vis-à-vis the Slovakian Bott Frigyes Faricka (€110) on the wine list.
Unlike Gil Chesterton, the pompous restaurant critic from the show, who made a ‘special effort’ to turn up with all of his critic friends on the first night of the Crane brothers’ disastrous attempt at a restaurant venture, I waited until the second night to sample this new Coppinger iteration! Don’t shoot the messenger, allowances are made for early days, and, besides which, another critic was apparently in situ.
lucindaosullivan.com
First Published In The Sunday Independent